Interview with Theresa Coburn

An insight into the mind of British designer, Theresa Coburn, whose work challenged gender stereotypes and explored the use of fetish wear in high-fashion contexts, during a time where such barriers had not yet been broken.

Source: http://stylescanner.blogspot.in/2010/06/theresa-coburn.html

When did you first start designing for Siouxsie and the Banshees and what was your favourite garmentthat you designed for Siouxsie Sioux?

The first outfits I designed were for an American tour in the late 80s. Apart from Siouxsie I did outfits for the whole band and everyone had quite individual looks.

Siouxsie had a very strong image and a strong stage presence and it was fantastic working with her. As a fashion designer primarily interested in stage wear and music, the stage is like a catwalk to me. I like to design garments that make a strong statement with silhouette and detailing that makes an impact from a distance. One of my favourite outfits was a white lycra crop top and mini skirt with black circular beading detail around the bust and hips. This was accessorised with a feather neckpiece and feather cuffs, long fringed gauntlets and fringed leggings.

What did it feel like to have your work exhibited in two major exhibitions, in London and New York?

It was incredibly exciting to see my work in that context and I think the only other designer to feature in both exhibitions was Vivienne Westwood. The exhibition at the V and A in London (Club to Catwalk) showcased work that I had done in latex at a time when no other designers were working in this medium (in a fashion context as opposed to fetish wear) and the whole exhibition showcased what an impact subcultural fashion trends had had on contemporary culture. I felt extremely proud tohave been a part of that movement because it was not something I was conscious of at the time – my work was something that I just ‘did’ and in many ways did not analyse too much.

The exhibition in New York Queer Style: From Closet to Catwalk featured work I had done with DJ

Jonny Slut –a handmade leather and chain stripe vest and a leather kilt. This exhibition featured over 100 designersand it was incredibly exciting to have my work feature alongside people like Jean Paul Gaultier, YSL and Chanel.

If you could style any one person, who would it be and why?

It would have been Bowie circa 1973 Ziggy Stardust. I am a massive fan and it would have been amazing to design for him at any point but the Ziggy imagery was incredible. I am very inspired by androgyny and gender neutral and although these are contemporary buzz words this aesthetic has always been consistent in my work. Particularly within my menswear where I consider there is so much room to push gender boundaries.

On a contemporary level, I really like Perfume Genius for the reasons given above and it would be good to work with someone older, maybe Grace Jones who has a fantastic image and proves that style is not all about youth!

Would you say that there are any elements of your style as a designers that resonate within your own personal style?

Yes, I mostly wear my own designs, although I have toned down my personal style a lot over the years. I think it is hard to separate your personal style from your work as so much of yourself goes in to it. In my design I like contradiction and juxtaposition in terms of attention to detail and fabric combination. Iam inspired by mixing traditional (gender specific) fabrics –i.e. pinstripe suiting for dresses, chiffon or lace for biker jackets. Dresses and biker boots etc. I wear mostly black (or variations) and favour strong attention to detail on garments.

Are you currently working on any personal projects outwith your role as Course Director at Heriot Watt?

Yes, I am currently working with Law Holt on ideas for stage and video. Work was featured in Oh Comedy magazine October 2016. Law has been working and touring with artists like Young Fathers and Mykki Blanco and feedback from them on the work has been very positive!

Style Scanner (2010). Theresa Coburn. [image] Available at: http://stylescanner.blogspot.in/2010/06/theresa-coburn.html [Accessed 18 Mar. 2017].